Summer is officially over. It’s time to shift out of the tank top and sandals and into some awesome fall rags. Autumn means it’s time for sweaters, slacks, chambray, flannel, and the long sleeve t-shirt. It’s also time to bring out your favorite tailored blazer.
If you want to impress, listen up. There are rules when it comes to tailored blazers. The old jacket your parents lent you for your cousin’s wedding won’t do at a NYC cocktail social. You can have it tailored or invest in a new one, but something’s got to give. Not sure how to begin the transformation from unkempt to pristine? That’s why I’m here. The details to a perfect blazer aren’t hard to follow. You just need to know a few key things.
The shoulder of your blazer should lie flat. Slim-fit does not mean hard-to-fit-into. If your sleeve is hiked up along your shoulder, you’ve done something wrong. The inverse is true too. If your jacket is a hand-me-down and the sleeves dangle, your jacket is too big. You shoulder should look just like it does in everyday life. Curved, flat, and free.
When buttoned, both sides of a single-breasted jacket should meet neatly in the middle. If the lapel is sagging in front or the sides flair out like a skirt, you need to find a tailor. Test the closure of your jacket with only one button done up. Three buttons will give you a false sense of width. There should be no tension on the button and no wrinkles radiating out from the closure. That only makes you look fat.
There are so many sleeve sinners in the world it makes me want to scream. A half-inch of linen, you pretenders! Your blazer sleeves should come to about your wrist, leaving a half-inch of shirt uncovered. Note that this means most of your sleeve cuff will be covered, but not all of it. Judge the balance carefully. Anything other than a half-in is absolutely unacceptable.
Did you know the length of your blazer is vitality important? Most people accept that as long as their jacket doesn’t hang below their thighs, nothing is amiss. Sorry to break it to you, but plenty is amiss if this is your measure of a good suit. The length of your suit should fall past the waist and drape over the top curve of your ass. Yeah. If you get this right, you’ll be showing off just the right amount of ass. So get it right.
This is the easiest one. You may not be able to see the back of your collar, but if it’s too big or too small you’ll feel it pretty quickly. A blazer collar should rest against the shirt collar. If it’s bunching up or standing away in the back, you need to go back to the trusty tailor. If you’ve taken the time to check the way your blazer’s shoulders fit, the collar should fall right into place. If you were lazy, can’t say I didn’t warn you.
Blazer ready? It better be. Now it’s time for some fancy cocktail parties. Go get ’em!